Alright so back in May, I spontaneously booked tickets to Armenia and Georgia. Always wanted to see the Caucasus region, heard mixed stuff but mostly good. Figured two weeks would do it. Packed light – hiking boots, layers, one big backpack. Done.
First Stop: Yerevan, Armenia
Landed in Yerevan super early. First thing? Hit the streets. Found this tiny stall selling lavash bread fresh off the stone oven. Still warm, chewy, wrapped around some salty cheese and herbs. Ate it standing there on the sidewalk. Perfect intro.
Spent the next day exploring Cascade Complex. Huge, Soviet-style staircase thing. Climbed all the way up. Legs burning, but wow. View over the city to Mount Ararat was unreal. Clear sky, snow on the peak. Just stood there breathing it in for ages.
- Armenian coffee: Tried it strong and sweet. Way thicker than espresso. Gritty at the bottom.
- Metro ride: Cheap as chips. Felt like stepping into the 70s. Soviet vibes everywhere.
- Found a local jazz bar. Music was smooth, crowd was older, smoke filled. Felt strangely timeless.
Left Yerevan buzzing. Friendly folks, cheaper than I thought.
The Minibus Ride to Tbilisi
Okay, this was… an experience. Booked a shared minibus at some tiny office near the bus station. Looked dodgy. Driver barely spoke English. Paid cash, hopped in. Took about 6 hours.
The road twisted through mountains. Scenery was stunning – deep gorges, green valleys. Driver? Drove like a madman. Honked constantly, overtook trucks on blind curves. I just clutched my backpack and prayed. Stopped halfway at this roadside shack. Ate khinkali (Georgian dumplings) for the first time. Beefy, soupy, messy. Delicious distraction from the near-death experience.
Georgia: Wine, Baths, and More Mountains
Tbilisi felt different – cobblestones, old balconies leaning everywhere, that big metal bridge thing (Peace Bridge). Wandered the Old Town. Smell of baking bread and something… sulfuric?
Sulfur Baths. Had to try. Booked a private room underground. Hot, milky water. Smelled like rotten eggs for two minutes, then stopped noticing. Steamed until I was mush. Felt amazing after all that travel.
Wine. Oh man, the wine. Went to a traditional family-run place called a marani in Kakheti (day trip). They ferment it in these giant clay pots buried underground. Tasted orange wine for the first time – amber, funky, dry. Loved it. Bought a bottle I somehow got home intact.
Did a day hike near Kazbegi. Little village called Stepantsminda. Hiked up to Gergeti Trinity Church. Steep. Thin air. Views of the valley and the massive glacier-covered mountain? Speechless. Shared chacha (local firewater) with other hikers at the top. Burned all the way down.
Wrapping It Up
Final days back in Tbilisi. Ate more khachapuri (cheese bread boat), explored the massive flea market for Soviet memorabilia (got an old compass), drank way too much Georgian wine. Flight home felt bittersweet.
Big takeaways?
- Two countries, totally different feels. Armenia more stoic, raw history. Georgia… chaotic, vibrant, feast-mode.
- Both incredibly safe. Walked around cities late, no worries.
- Food is hearty, unpretentious, delicious. Hardly spent much on eating out.
- People were warm, but not in your face. Felt genuinely welcomed.
Would go back tomorrow. Already eyeing flights.